The Hard Facts Behind BBQ: Brisket Grades, Costs, and Why That Bad Review Might Miss the Mark 

By Derik Strelsky

Texas Barbecue Online Magazine

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Picture this: It’s high noon, you’re standing in line at your favorite BBQ place or even one you have never been to. The sun’s beating down, and the line is wrapping around the building. Clean Smoke rolls out of the pit, the smell of brisket hits you like a field of Bluebonnets, and folks are walking out clutching their trays like they struck Texas tea. Then, you finally get yours, thick-cut brisket stacked high, and the bark is joyfully screaming at you like it has something to prove. Finally, add in beans, slaw, and banana pudding on the side, and it’s everything you dreamed of. Then you hear someone behind you gripe, “$50 for this?” or “They’re already out of sausage? What a ripoff.”

For the owner, there’s nothing quite like busting your b…behind before the sun even thinks about coming up, trimming brisket in low light or coaxing a stubborn fire to life, only to have someone hit you with a one-star review before they’ve even finished chewing. Folks forget or don’t understang what goes into that plate. It ain’t just meat. It’s the sleep you didn’t get, hands burned more times than you can count, along with the mulitible sliced fingers and stress, oh, don’t even get me started on stress.

BBQ isn’t just food. It’s a grind. It’s passion, persistence, and a whole lot of worry and dealines. From brisket grades to why some joints only open a few days a week, these are just some of the reasons why that plate you’re holding is worth every penny, and why some complaints just don’t hold up.

Choice versus Prime

Choice Brisket: What You’re Getting
If a BBQ joint is using Choice-grade brisket, that is not a bad thing. What matters is what they do with it on the pit. Choice brisket is a solid option that, in the right hands, can turn out just as flavorful and tender as the higher grades.

In a March 2021 interview with Texas Barbecue Online Magazine, when asked about Prime versus Choice, Snow’s BBQ’s world-famous pitmaster Tootsie Tomanetz offered this perspective: “It really doesn’t matter. You just need to know what you’re doing and make sure you give each brisket some TLC.”

According to the USDA, Choice brisket comes from high-quality beef with moderate marbling. It is not as fatty as Prime, but still rich enough to deliver an excellent finished product. It ranks above Select and is widely available in most grocery stores.

Still, marbling is your friend. The more intramuscular fat present, the better it will render down during a long, slow cook, keeping the brisket tender, juicy, and full of flavor.

Prime Brisket: The Top Shelf Cut
If your favorite BBQ spot, or even that place down the street you think is overcharging, is using USDA Prime brisket, that is the reason behind the higher prices. According to the USDA, Prime brisket costs about 30 percent more per pound than Choice. It is the highest grade available, coming from well-fed younger cattle with superior marbling.

But here is the thing. If the pitmaster knows what they are doing, you are about to experience the best brisket in Texas, which means the best brisket in the world.

Just so you know, Prime brisket is typically served in high-end barbecue restaurants or found at specialty butcher shops. It tastes incredible, and yes, it will cost more. So next time, do not knock the price. Appreciate the quality.

More of What You’re Really Paying For

The last four years have been rough. Gas prices shot up, and with them, the cost of meat, sides, and supplies. According to the USDA, beef prices have steadily increased due to shrinking cattle herds and strong consumer demand. The Bureau of Labor Statistics reports that beef costs have climbed between 13% and 19.2% since 2020 and that’s not necssaily counting the rising cost of premium cuts.

That brisket that used to cost $4 a pound in 2020 is now running $6 or $7, depending on the grade and supplier. Ronnie Killen of Killen’s Barbecue in Houston said back in 2017, “If it means selling brisket for no profit, then that’s what it means. I don’t care.” On the BBQ State of Mind podcast, he shared that brisket from Snake River Farms was costing him $9.35 per pound, compared to the more typical $3.50 to $3.75 range.

But beyond just meat, you’re paying for hours of work. Trimming, seasoning, and smoking a brisket can take 18 hours or more. You’re also paying for texture, taste, fuel, prep time, and the experience that comes with it. That’s the difference between good and unforgettable.

So no, owners aren’t charging $50 a plate to get rich. Most are doing it just to stay afloat. And if they could drop prices and still survive, they would. Trust me, happy customers are what keep the doors open.

More Worries Behind the Smoke

Running a BBQ joint is like juggling a running chainsaw, your precious four-year-old, and a porcupine. Sure, meat’s the biggest expense, and Prime pushes that number way up. But then you’ve got wood for the smoker: oak, mesquite, pecan, and it all adds up fast. Add in the cost of that smoker or smokers, coolers, warmers, electricity, water, and gas, and the cost on your menu is forced to rise in dollars. Rent’s another beast, especially if you’re in a prime location. Then there’s payroll, sales tax, property tax, insurance, workers’ comp, and more.

And don’t forget government interference. During COVID, small businesses got hammered. Lockdowns, endless rule changes, mask disputes, all of it slowed things down and bled money and in some cases, even caused businesses to close. Some owners who tried to make common-sense adjustments with the mask policies caught flak anyway. On top of that, there are nuisance health inspections and zoning drama such as people in the brand new apartment complex complaining that they have to smell that smoke coming from the BBQ business that has been there for 25 years. Every time you jump through one hoop, there’s another waiting.

Some places cut back to just a few days a week to manage costs, thinking that with fewer staff there would be less overhead and less stress. But there’s a tradeoff. Places that run seven days a week create more jobs and pump more money into the community. More hours mean more hires, but also more pressure on the owner’s wallet and psyche. Gas prices are finally easing up here in 2025, which should bring relief on the supply side, but that trickle-down isn’t reaching the pit just yet.

Pit Master, Clay Cowgill hard at work at the world famous, Snow’s BBQ in Lexington, Texas

Why It Takes So Long to Make It Right

You can’t rush BBQ. Brisket isn’t a drive-thru meal. It’s trimmed, rubbed, and put on the smoker for 12 to 18 hours, sometimes longer. Sausage is ground, seasoned, cased, and smoked. With ribs, you’re looking at four to six hours minimum. It’s not fast food, and it’s not supposed to be.

If a place sells out by noon, that’s not failure.
It’s a sign they did it right — but it also means they need your continued support. When that happens, you can bet they’ll throw two or three more briskets on the pit so next time, there’ll be plenty to go around.

However, keep in mind: you can’t just toss another brisket on and have it ready in five minutes or even in time for dinner. That’s a constant truth with all BBQ. Most of the time, tomorrow’s brisket is already smoking before today’s is done.

The Cut That Hurts Most: Bad Reviews

Few things sting more than a careless review. The public often doesn’t understand what it takes to get from pasture to plate, the early hours, the freezing mornings in the winter, the blistering heat in the summer, and the constant scramble to find enough help. And yet, someone will casually drop a “too expensive” or “poor service” rating like it costs nothing.

But sometimes, it’s worse. Some folks take shots based on politics, or because they saw a flag flying they didn’t agree with. That’s not criticism — that’s hate.

Barbecue is about good food, good people, and good vibes. And from this writer’s perspective, it’s about family. That means your family and the BBQ owner’s family. It shouldn’t be turned into a battlefield for personal grudges.

Then there’s the shady stuff, like leaving bad reviews to help a friend’s business rank higher and make another place look bad. That’s not feedback. It’s sabotage, and often it hits hard. One mean-spirited review can wreck sales, rattle the staff, and put serious strain on the business. That’s someone’s dream and passion your putting in danger.  Someone’s bills. Someone’s family and children they are trying to feed and send to school. Critique the food all you want in a polite and professional manner. Or speak with either the manager or owner face to face, but please, don’t go low for sport or for sabotage.

The Bottom Line

Whether it’s Choice or Prime, a small pop-up or a full-time smokehouse, BBQ is a labor of love. It’s an investment in flavor, community, and in Texas it’s both heritage and tradition, bordering on a religion. Every plate carries hours of work, a mountain of bills, and someone’s whole heart poured into it.

So when you’re standing in line, soaking in that rich, smokey aroma, take a moment. Appreciate what went into that tray. And if something’s not quite right, offer a little grace. Odds are, they’ve already gone above and beyond just to get that plate in your hands.

So, next time you eat BBQ, thank the pitmaster and maybe leave a good review while you’re at it.

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