The Quiet Morning and a Legend in Motion

The sound of cattle bawling drifted through the cool predawn air as I stepped out of my truck. Just down the street, the old sale barn stands as a testament to decades of tradition, where every Saturday, ranchers still bring their livestock to market.

The town of Lexington, Texas, was cloaked in darkness, with only a faint glow breaking the night. To my right, there’s a dim light from what appears to be just an old work shed, but as you look closer you could see a figure moving purposefully in and out of the shadows. It was 3:45 a.m., and this quiet hive of activity was unmistakable. If you know anything about Texas barbecue, you’d recognize the scene immediately, not from a flashy sign, but by the presence of a small, unassuming figure moving between pits, the famed Pit Master, Tootsie Tomanetz. I had arrived at Snow’s BBQ.

At just 5’3”, Tootsie commands a larger-than-life reputation. Known as the Queen of Barbecue, her passion and craftsmanship have earned her a place among the greats. Watching her tend the pits is witnessing history in the making.

From Humble Beginnings to Barbecue Royalty

Tootsie’s barbecue story began in 1966 at the City Meat Market in Giddings, Texas. Under the mentorship of Pit Master Orange Holloway, she started as a part-time worker, encouraged by her husband, Edward, who also worked there. Her work ethic and talent quickly stood out, and she transitioned to full-time. The couple spent ten years perfecting their craft together before purchasing the City Meat Market in Lexington in 1976.

For the next 20 years, Tootsie honed her skills, mastering both butchery, sausage making, and the art of smoking meat. At that time, brisket wasn’t the star it is today; sausage reigned supreme. This foundation helped her develop the precision and intuition that make her a living legend.

Snow’s BBQ: A Partnership of Passion

In 2003, Tootsie joined forces with Kerry Bexley, Snow’s BBQ owner, ex-rodeo star, and local personality. Together, they’ve turned Snow’s into a barbecue institution. Their efforts paid off in spades when Snow’s was named the #1 Barbecue Joint in 2008 and again in 2017. By 4 a.m. a line of eager barbecue enthusiasts forms, snaking across the property. By 7 a.m. the line extends out of the lot, into the alley, out into the street and around the block. The aroma of smoked meat fills the air, enticing patrons to wait for hours for a taste of Texas barbecue perfection.

As we moved through the smoky pit room, Tootsie paused and mentioned she needed to check on the chicken. I couldn’t resist sharing how much I loved the chicken at Snow’s BBQ, always so incredibly juicy. Curious, I asked her about the temperature she uses to cook it. Without hesitation, she walked over to the pit, placed her hand gently on the lid, and said, “This one is running at about 200.”

I couldn’t help but chuckle but thought, who else but Tootsie could measure temperature by touch with such precision? Out of curiosity, I felt the pit myself, and it had a tolerable warm feeling to it.

So, to prove her point, she walked over to the pit where pork shoulders were cooking, and said this one should be a little warmer. Tootsie rested her hand on it for a moment and declared confidently, “This one is running at about 250.” Again, I placed my hand on the lid, and there was no doubt, it was noticeably warmer. Her intuition and experience, built over decades of tending these pits, were nothing short of remarkable.

Tootsie, now in her late 80s, remains humble about her fame. When asked about the global rise of barbecue, she expressed her hope that the trend endures but warned, “You have to love what you’re doing. You can’t just learn it overnight. It takes years to gain the knowledge and experience needed to make good barbecue.”

Her approach is rooted in simplicity and care. On brisket grades used in competitions, she laughed and said, “It really doesn’t matter. You just need to know what you’re doing and make sure you give each brisket some TLC.”

An Experience to Remember

Later that morning, friends of mine from Australia joined me for what they described as the best brisket they’d ever eaten. Each bite triggered involuntary reactions, eyes rolling back, grunts of pleasure, and disbelieving exclamations of “oh” and “wow.” This barbecue is more than food; it’s an experience that speaks to the soul.

A Living Legend

As I walked alongside Tootsie, I realized I was in the presence of barbecue royalty. A 2018 Barbecue Hall of Fame inductee, Tootsie Tomanetz’s stature in the world of barbecue is unmatched. Her humility and dedication to the craft are as inspiring as the food she creates.

But don’t just take my word for it, make the journey to Snow’s BBQ and let Tootsie’s barbecue tell the story. Her passion, skill, and heart are in every bite.

Plan Your Visit Today

Snow’s BBQ
516 Main St, Lexington, Texas 78947
Phone: 979-773-4640